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| Balsa wood | Balsa Holz | |
| very light wood that comes in various thicknesses. Normally you get a sheet of 1000x200x3 mm. You can also get ready-made sticks like 1000x3x3mm, but those are pretty expensive compared to your standard sheet. Prices vary according to thickness, a 1000x200x2 mm is about 2 $ (4 DM), a stick of 1000x3x3 is about .50 $ (1 DM), so you can get quite a couple of sticks if you cut them yourself. Besides... if you cut them yourself, they are way more inaccurate and resemble a lot better a roughcut piece of wood. |
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| Styropor | Styrodur | Polystyrene | Styropor | Styrodur | Polystyrene | |
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Der Unterschied Styrodur zu Styropor sorgt ja immer wieder
für Verwirrung, daher habe ich hier einiges zusammengetragen. Styropor, Styrodur und Styrofoam sind Markennamen für Polystrol (polystyrene im Englischen). Styropor ist "dat weiße Zeuchs, das sich bescheiden mit einem Messer schneiden lässt und wie verdammt krümelt". Styropor besteht aus kleinen Kügelchen. Wird auch gerne als Verpackung für Elektrogeräte, Zb Fernseher, Toaster, Stereos etc verwendet und hat dann lustige Formen, die man für 40k Bunker etc nehmen kann. Verbrennt mit HWC superschnell und setzt auch mehr Styrol frei. Styropor bekommt man als Dämmung in wirklich jedem Baumarkt, qm ab ca 0,50 EUR. Styrodur bekommt Ihr im Baumarkt als Dämmstoff für Fußbodenheizung
und Dach von meist 20mm - 55mm Dicke. Es gibt auch Varianten mit einer Rasterstruktur drauf, die man gut für 40k Gelände nehmen
kann. Online-Händler findet Ihr unter Manufacturers So, hier mal ein paar technischere Infos: Expandiertes Polystyrol (EPS, weiße Farbe) wird als Dämmstoffplatte verwendet. Gute Wärmedämmung, billig, unverrottbar und resistent gegen Ungeziefer. Starke Qualmbildung im Brandfall, keine Gesundheitsbelastung im eingebauten Zustand, als Erdölprodukt jedoch bei der Herstellung umweltbelastend. Relativ diffusionsdicht. Anwendung unter Estrichen, als Fassadenplatte oder auch als Deckendämmplatte. Als Granulat wird EPS zementgebunden als Schüttung unter Estrichen verwendet, hat aber dann deutlich schlechtere Dämmwerte. Extrudiertes Polystyrol (XPS, auch Polystyrol-Hartschaum genannt, grüne, rosa oder blaue Farbe, bekannt unter den Markennamen Styrodur (TM BASF) oder Styrofoam (TM Dow)) wird hauptsächlich als Dämmstoffplatte im Nassbereich eingesetzt. Hohe Druckfestigkeit, keine Gesundheitsgefährdung, jedoch im Brandfall starke Qualmbildung. Umweltbelastend bei der Herstellung (Erdölprodukt), CO2-geschäumte Platten sind aber ökologisch vertretbar. Einsatzbereiche sind feuchtigkeitsbelastete Orte (Perimeterbereich, Balkone, Fachdächer). GW England arbeitet übrigens meist mit Styrodur und nicht mit Styropor (auch wenn das deutsch GW-Team meist Styropor oder Polystyrol schreibt...) |
| Cardboard | Pappe | |
| It´s amazing, but a lot of my terrain pieces are to about 80 percent made with plain normal cardboard. Cereal is excellent for this, not only is cereal something that´s good for you (remember your mom :) but it is also the best supply for this. It is easy to cut, does not cost you anything at all and most important: making rivets was never easier before. Several sites on the Internet and several articles in books and magazines mention the possibility of making rivets by cutting small pieces of a plastic sprue and gluing these on. A tad too fiddly for me... Well, just turn the cardboard over, use a small hammer and an old nail to create the best looking rivets ! As you can cut the cardboard to whatever shape you want, you can create stunning machinery detail and about everything you can imagine, that in "real life" would have been fastened cia rivets. As you usually want the terrain for 40k or Necromunda to look older and slightly (or even a lot) used, you can create rivets, that look as if the nail is beginning to rust away etc. Another use for cardboard is for tile roofs as used on cottages in Warhammer. |
| Foamcore / Foam Board | Schaumpappe | |
| this is styrofoam sandwiched between cardboard. Very
lightweight and one of the most versatile materials for making buildings. Pretty
expensive, though. In Sweden they are apparently sold as 'Kappa'-boards named after the
company who manufactures them. You can get them at Art supply stores In the UK try Ryman. |
dünne Polystyrol-Hartschaum, auf beiden Seiten mit Pappe beklebt. Deutsche Namen hierfür sind z.B. Kappa-Board, Foamcore, Schaumpappe, F-Board |
| Mesh | Drahtgewebe | |
| I bought my mesh from Busch (Art.No. 7179) 75x60cm cost 9$ (18 DM), most model train stores in Germany carry Busch products. I actually never looked for mesh as used in auto body repair shops, but I guess you can get mesh there, too. This mesh can be cut using plain normal scissors without damaging them, so I prefer it to other alternatives. Mesh can be put to great use for Chainlink Fencing , for creating lids over vents etc and for creating a "background" for Necromunda Bulkheads (see picture on right) |
| Putty | Knete | |
| For temporarily fixing stuff to something. I like to put some putty on a small block of foamcore to make painting of very small scenery stuff easier. Marine backpacks are a great addition to terrain, looking as if lost or scattered from a dead marine. But those things are fiddly! Sticking it to a base while painting really speeds things up. You can use BluTac, essentially a kind of putty, that is very sticky, but can be cleaned of of surfaces again. |
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| Modelling Putty | Modellierknete | |
| For actually modelling stuff on miniatures or special ornaments on terrain. I used to use Milliput, which had to be imported from England, but now I use the "Green Stuff", that GW uses, too. You can get it most easily from GW, e.g. via MailOrder, or directly from Polymerics, the manufacturer, at about 10$ per 36" strip. It is a two-component putty, that, when knit together, has a green color and dries in about 2 hours. After a day or so you can drill and file and do whatever you like with it. Great for making small mushrooms, too... |
| Bouillon | ||
| that´s the silver or golden piping used on some costumes. Normally about 1.5mm thick and comes in various length like 3 m. It can be used to resemble fine cables, as it has a special structure to it. Just strengthen it with some super glue. I bought it from a hobby store for 2 $ (4 DM). One possible manufacturer in Germany is Knorr Hobby GmbH, Postfach 1240, 96202 Lichtenfels |
| Perls | Perlen | |
| For bigger and more voluminous rivets I use 2.5mm Perlen. You get 20 gramms (which is an awful lot - approx. 200!!) for 2 $ (4 DM). Mine were manufactured by Knorr Hobby GmbH |
| Filler | Spachtel | |
| You can get decent filler in every DIY-store (Baumärkte). Normally it is used to fill small cracks in walls. It has a plasterlike consistency and can be smoothed using a little bit of water. When dry you can cut and file it to your needs. Filler can be put onto walls to get a concrete surface and is great for filling gaps in your terrain models. | Moltofill |
| Necromunda Bulkheads | ||
| Originally shipped only with the Necromunda Boxed Game, you can get them now in various kits from GW. The Industrial Site is basically all the terrain stuff from the boxed game. The bunkers and other small terrain kits by GW feature the bulkheads, too. And you can get them via MailOrder, of course. I use them on several of my buildings, as they are well detailed and have IMHO exactly the right look on them. |
| Sand | Sand | |
| I use plain normal
birdsand for basing miniatures and terrain. Using dilluted PVA glue cover the whole
base,
then sprinkle a thick layer of sand over it and let dry for a couple of hours. Miniatures
bases are normally dry after one or two hours, terrain bases normally take
longer, as I
use more glue and try to seal the gaps between the base and the terrain.
|
Derzeit benutzen wir "0-2mm Spielzeugsand" von OBI |
| Kitty Litter | Katzenstreu | |
| It provides bigger stones with a great texture when drybrushed. See some of the pictures in the Corners-Section for examples. Ask your family or friends for this, cause you don´t need masses (except when detailing hills etc.) and although Kitty Litter is pretty cheap, you can only get it in "family bags" of 10 kg and more... maybe a bit too much :) |
| Cu-Fitting muffe | Kupfermuffen | |
| Those 15mm plumber couplings can be found at hardware stores, in Germany e.g. Max Bahr. ´Til now I did not find those plumbings, that really look like barrels. Mine just look, well, like very plain barrels, but for now they have to work. Just cut a 15mm card circle and you have the top for an ok looking barrel. |
| Toy car tires | Spielzeug-Auto-Reifen | |
| In Germany we have lots of `flea markets`, some sort of garage sale, only way bigger. And there you can get old toy cars very cheap. Last weekend I got four trucks with almost 20 great looking wheels for 4$. You just have to paint, shade and highlight them and they look realler than real. |
| Old electronic junk | Alter Elektronik-Müll | |
| never throw old electronic junk away, at least not without scavenging them for the really good parts. On old net cards you get lots of jumpers, which I used to great effect on several of my Necromunda/40K bridges and walkways. You just have to connect them via thick string. |
| Drinking straws | Strohhalme | |
| You can get them very cheap in almost every supermarket. They can be put to use on almost every futuristic building to represent sludgepipes or exhaust pipes. Get them with that end, that you can bend in another direction, as these solve one of the biggest problems of round surfaces in our small world: detail. When painted, these `bending` pipes look really like the real thing :) |
| Skeleton Shield Sprue | ||
| again a
GW product, these sprues are normally included in the Skeleton Regiment Boxed
Sets. They are great for adding detail to bridges and buildings. Available via Games
Workshop MailOrder, although a bit expensive... Better buy one of the Regiment Sets, they
include enough pieces for 20 Skeletons and 20 Shields to choose from. And the Skeletons
can be put to great use... for giving the battlefield or the Sludge Pool that really
realistic touch :) For only skulls you can get resin casted from FortressMiniatures |
| BitzBox | Kramskiste | |
| my box is filled with all sorts of stuff: old sprues, miniature pieces from conversions, old miniatures, little toy car tires, broken bulkheads, Mortheim sprue windows, needles, jumpers etc... everything that´s small and that looks cool and maybe could be used on a future project... |
| Latex Milk | Latex Milch | |
| This milk is a thin mass, that you brush or pour over objects in order to make a mold. You need to have several coats of latex, else the mould will not be strong enough and may break in the process of casting. Depending on what kind of Latex Milk you use, you can even cast with pewter, although I prefer to cast with plaster of paris or resin. You can get Latex Milk at DIY stores, or probably at "Karstadt Sport & Spiel" in the "Künstlerbedarf". I tried milk from "Knorr Hobby" and "hobbytime, Glorex Switzerland". |
| Plaster of Paris | Gips | |
| white powder, that´s mixed in a 1:1 ratio with water, and dries up in 10 minutes to 6 hours. It is porous, so it takes on quite a lot of paint. Try to seal in advance with dilluted PVA glue. | weißes Pulver, das im Mischungsverhältnis 1:1 mit Wasser angerührt wird. Trocknet von 10min bis 6 Stunden. Ist porös, nimmt also eine Masse Farbe auf. Vorher nach Möglichkeit mit verdünntem Weißleim versiegeln. |
| Ceramofix, KeraQuick & Keramin S | ||
| almost like Plaster of Paris, but dries up rockhard in 30 minutes. Dries to a porcellaine finish, which takes paint like some normal miniature, not like Plaster of Paris, for which you need horrendous amounds of paint... Ceramofix is a product of "Eberhard Faber", and Kermain S is by "hobbytime, Glorex Switzerland" |
| Dentalgips | ||
| Sehr harter Gips (Klasse IV), perfekt für HirstArts-Formen mit vielen Details |
| Citadel Spraypaint |
Citadel Sprühfarbe |
|
| For what you get I don´t think it´s too expensive... dries fast, gives an even coat of paint and doesn´t let other paint shine through. It is the only spraypaint that I use for miniatures. Be careful with Styrofoam ! The stuff melts like crazy, unless you seal with PVA or normal paint. | Für das was man bekommt finde ich nicht das die Citadel-Farben zu teuer sind.. trocknen schnell, geben einen gleichmässigen Farbauftrag und decken gut. Für Miniaturen das einzige Spray das ich benutze. Achtung mit Styropor und Styrodur ! Ist lösemittelbasiert, schmilzt also Polystyrol! |
| Silikon RTV | ||
| Mit diesem meist weissen Silikonkautschuk kann man wunderbar Formen erstellen, die man dann beliebig oft ausgießen kann. |
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